Weekend Trip to Gandikota and Belum Caves

A small village tucked away in wilderness, that’s the first impression you get of Gandikota.

As you set out to explore the ruins of what was once a huge fort, walking through the pebbled paths, with the fresh air, rugged villagers and their cattle for company, you absorb the sheer tranquility of the place, the sound of silence it offers and the history it speaks of.

We booked an overnight sleeper bus from Hyd to Tadipatri (Diwaker Travels). From there we had to take a bus to a town called Jammalamadugu (took around 2 hours); then another bus to Gandikota (took about 20 min). The frequency of buses from Jammalamadugu to Gandikota is as low as twice a day. Autorickshaws are also available in this stretch.

Throughout the journey, you can see the generous use of Cuddapah slabs in the construction of tea shops, houses, temples, benches; practically anything and everything!

The only hotel and restaurant in Gandikota is the ‘Haritha Resort’ run by the APTDC. The bus stops right in front of it. The entrance of the hotel itself is built like a fort wall, complete with a watch point. The hotel has both A/C and non A/C rooms. Though the staff is not very technology-friendly, it is better to book your rooms online before reaching - especially if you are travelling during the weekends. Some of the rooms have a terrace which gives good scenic views.

The restaurant serves hot and spicy Andhra meals for lunch – complete with pappu, pickle, koora, rasam, papad, curd and rice, and offers limited choice for dinner like fried rice, tomato curry and roti.

You can explore Gandikota in about 3 hours’ time - request for a guide at the APTDC. (Un)fortunately, most guides were busy with folks from the Archaeological Survey of India as the officials are now trying for a Heritage status for the Gandikota fort.

So, we started on foot and headed for the fort, came across a ‘Charminar’ (yes, there’s one here too!). As we proceeded, we saw the Granary. A small diversion on the left lead us to the mighty Madhavaraya Temple, the gopuram is tall, beautiful and eroded at places. The temple is now a monument and the idols have been removed. Just outside the temple, we noticed a board called ‘Royal Bath’; the adventurers in us tread down the path, which lead to a rather deserted gorge (probably the fort gorge view point). A man driving his goats home told us there was a ‘cheruvu’ ahead. The water was scant, the climb was tough with thorns and wild grass catching at our dresses, but the view was terrific.

Charminar

Deserted Gorge

Deserted Gorge 2

We proceeded next to Jama Masjid, Ranganatha Swamy Temple and the Gandikota Gorge View Point. The gorge view point is breathtakingly beautiful. You can spend hours looking at the green waters of the Penna river passing through the deep valleys of red granite. So picturesque, that the colour contrast will remain vivid in your memory. We were the only proud folks who caught the sunrise at the gorge view point the next day morning. J

Gorge view point

We breakfasted, checked out and boarded the return bus to Jammalamadugu. The driver, however had a different plan for us and took us uphill to Gandikotala Palli. The journey consisted of hairpin bends which was marvelous for clicking panoramic views of the Gandikota fort walls. It was a treat to the eye-red against green! What seemed to be a quiet hill with a few houses was also a windmill farm for companies like Suzlon Energy Ltd!

Our journey continued from G.Kotala Palli to J.Madugu to Belum Caves, which took about 3 hours.

These caves are believed to be used by Buddhist monks for penance ages ago. Places of interest include – Banyan Tree Hall, Thousand Hoods, Patalaganga, Kotilingalu Chamber, Meditation Hall and the stalagmite formations. At the mouth of the caves, there is a list and a map showing the places of interest. Overall, a good experience of mazes underground.

We boarded a bus back to Tadipatri and dined at the sole AC restaurant (which we found after a lot of hunting) in the town. Headed home in a pre-booked sleeper bus (again, Diwaker Travels) with the satisfaction of having spent the weekend well.

Patalaganga

Points to note:

1.       Gandikota:  

·         You could probably trek down to the river from near the gorge view point, but better to do so with the help of a guide.

·         Kayaking is available – do get the details from the APTDC guys if you are game.

·         Though you may be the only tourist at a given spot at a given time, enjoy the tranquility. You will get it only as long as Gandikota remains non-commercialized.

2.       Belum Caves:

·         The caves are humid and mushy at places - it is advisable to wear light clothing and appropriate footwear/shoes.

·         Though there are plenty of places in the campus where you can take an afternoon nap, you can’t plan to lunch as only light refreshments are available.