Weekend Trip to Gandikota and Belum Caves

A small village tucked away in wilderness, that’s the first impression you get of Gandikota.

As you set out to explore the ruins of what was once a huge fort, walking through the pebbled paths, with the fresh air, rugged villagers and their cattle for company, you absorb the sheer tranquility of the place, the sound of silence it offers and the history it speaks of.

We booked an overnight sleeper bus from Hyd to Tadipatri (Diwaker Travels). From there we had to take a bus to a town called Jammalamadugu (took around 2 hours); then another bus to Gandikota (took about 20 min). The frequency of buses from Jammalamadugu to Gandikota is as low as twice a day. Autorickshaws are also available in this stretch.

Throughout the journey, you can see the generous use of Cuddapah slabs in the construction of tea shops, houses, temples, benches; practically anything and everything!

The only hotel and restaurant in Gandikota is the ‘Haritha Resort’ run by the APTDC. The bus stops right in front of it. The entrance of the hotel itself is built like a fort wall, complete with a watch point. The hotel has both A/C and non A/C rooms. Though the staff is not very technology-friendly, it is better to book your rooms online before reaching - especially if you are travelling during the weekends. Some of the rooms have a terrace which gives good scenic views.

The restaurant serves hot and spicy Andhra meals for lunch – complete with pappu, pickle, koora, rasam, papad, curd and rice, and offers limited choice for dinner like fried rice, tomato curry and roti.

You can explore Gandikota in about 3 hours’ time - request for a guide at the APTDC. (Un)fortunately, most guides were busy with folks from the Archaeological Survey of India as the officials are now trying for a Heritage status for the Gandikota fort.

So, we started on foot and headed for the fort, came across a ‘Charminar’ (yes, there’s one here too!). As we proceeded, we saw the Granary. A small diversion on the left lead us to the mighty Madhavaraya Temple, the gopuram is tall, beautiful and eroded at places. The temple is now a monument and the idols have been removed. Just outside the temple, we noticed a board called ‘Royal Bath’; the adventurers in us tread down the path, which lead to a rather deserted gorge (probably the fort gorge view point). A man driving his goats home told us there was a ‘cheruvu’ ahead. The water was scant, the climb was tough with thorns and wild grass catching at our dresses, but the view was terrific.

Charminar

Deserted Gorge

Deserted Gorge 2

We proceeded next to Jama Masjid, Ranganatha Swamy Temple and the Gandikota Gorge View Point. The gorge view point is breathtakingly beautiful. You can spend hours looking at the green waters of the Penna river passing through the deep valleys of red granite. So picturesque, that the colour contrast will remain vivid in your memory. We were the only proud folks who caught the sunrise at the gorge view point the next day morning. J

Gorge view point

We breakfasted, checked out and boarded the return bus to Jammalamadugu. The driver, however had a different plan for us and took us uphill to Gandikotala Palli. The journey consisted of hairpin bends which was marvelous for clicking panoramic views of the Gandikota fort walls. It was a treat to the eye-red against green! What seemed to be a quiet hill with a few houses was also a windmill farm for companies like Suzlon Energy Ltd!

Our journey continued from G.Kotala Palli to J.Madugu to Belum Caves, which took about 3 hours.

These caves are believed to be used by Buddhist monks for penance ages ago. Places of interest include – Banyan Tree Hall, Thousand Hoods, Patalaganga, Kotilingalu Chamber, Meditation Hall and the stalagmite formations. At the mouth of the caves, there is a list and a map showing the places of interest. Overall, a good experience of mazes underground.

We boarded a bus back to Tadipatri and dined at the sole AC restaurant (which we found after a lot of hunting) in the town. Headed home in a pre-booked sleeper bus (again, Diwaker Travels) with the satisfaction of having spent the weekend well.

Patalaganga

Points to note:

1.       Gandikota:  

·         You could probably trek down to the river from near the gorge view point, but better to do so with the help of a guide.

·         Kayaking is available – do get the details from the APTDC guys if you are game.

·         Though you may be the only tourist at a given spot at a given time, enjoy the tranquility. You will get it only as long as Gandikota remains non-commercialized.

2.       Belum Caves:

·         The caves are humid and mushy at places - it is advisable to wear light clothing and appropriate footwear/shoes.

·         Though there are plenty of places in the campus where you can take an afternoon nap, you can’t plan to lunch as only light refreshments are available.

A weekend trip to Hampi

Hotel booking – check

Train tickets – check

Bags, camera – check, check and..Action!

My better half and I boarded the 23:10 to Hampi from Nampally. We had chosen what seemed to be the last daily train from Hyderabad station, both the station and us were waiting for the train to come and catch up on our sleep!

Day1:

We started the day in the morning with hot and oily samosas at Guntakal station. The train reached Hospet Jn (the nearest town to Hampi) by around 10:30. We caught an auto to the Hospet bus-stand, which is about 1.5 kms from the station and boarded a bus to Hampi. They have buses every half an hour and we got comfortable seats for the journey to the old temple city of Hampi.

The hotel where we had reserved a room – Hotel Gowri is located on the other side of the river; we took the ferry and rented a bike. Let me warn you here, that the petrol is a hoarded commodity near the river, (as there is just a single petrol pump in this side of the river) and could burn a hole in your pocket at Rs.100 a litre! Apart from that, renting a bike is perhaps the best and most economical way to explore Hampi on the other side of the river.

We somehow drove through the narrow, busy, kuccha streets of Hampi and onto the main road, almost four kilometers in all to reach our quaint hotel by noon. The hotel is run by a father-son duo, warm and host-ly (I guess that is what brings them more customers, who are ready to take the long ride). The lush, green paddy fields smiled at us from the yard of our ‘bamboo hut’, energizing us with their freshness. We lunched at the hotel; they serve good, home-cooked food. We planned to tour this side of Hampi first.

Bamboo huts - Hotel Gowri, view from Sanapur Lake

We set off on our rented bike (a TVS Excel) on a 14km trip, the farthest point being Chintamani Temple (famous for Lord Rama’s feet carved in stone and the spot where Vali and Sugreeva fought). We next headed to Durga temple, which is located on a hill-top. Tired out by the scorching heat, we paused for our usual siesta, this time on the rocks at the foot of the hills. We rode next to Pampa Sarovar; the place has two small ponds and a temple of Goddess Laxmi. The now agreeable sun reminded us that we better pay him a visit as he sets down for the day. We drove forward to Anjani Parbat and climbed up a challenging 580 rock-cut steps to reach the birthplace of Lord Hanuman. There are temples dedicated to both the Lord and his mother. The mountain-top is a much sought-after sunset spot, which offers a splendid view of the fields and the hillocks below. Definitely worth the climb! (And the only way to manage the climb is either to count the steps or chant Hanuman Chalisa; I leave it to your imagination on what we chose).

It’s practically difficult to drive around in Hampi after 6 pm, given that there are almost no street lights and that you’ve to fight swarms of flies against your face instead of just the wind!

Having enough taste of adventure for the day and with no eagerness to taste flies, we went back to hotel and dined. We tucked in early, with the sound of the crickets chirping in the fields as our lullaby!!

Day 2:

We breakfasted, rode to the Boat Point and took a ferry across (it costs Rs.10 per head one way). The moment our boat reached across, atleast 8-10 auto rickshaw drivers were trying to get their savaari. Be warned! For their target customers are usually foreigners and they tend to charge you quite a bit; you can find cheaper rides near the Hampi bazaar covering the same spots. An auto rickshaw ride is the best way to travel if you are on a short visit.

We took a full-day tour package which covered the Ganesha temples, Lakshmi Narasimha Temple, Bidavilinga, Krishna temple & Krishna bazaar, Siva temple built by the emperor for his parents, Lotus Mahal, Elephant Stables, museum & watch Tower, Hazarerama Temple & Pan bazaar, ruins of old palace & the newly built stepped pushkarni and the Queen’s bath. We stopped for lunch at ‘Food Point’, a vegetarian dhaba with stone tables and mats instead of chairs.

Elephant Stables

Post lunch, we headed to the world heritage-UNESCO protected Vittala Temple (which has the famous stone chariot that comes to one’s mind when one hears the word ‘Hampi’). The temple is situated about 2km away from the gate; the archaeological authorities have battery operated cars which take you to the entrance of the temple. The temple complex has a lot of architectural marvels and history to it.

There are plenty of shops in and around all these spots, where you can stop for a lime soda, sugarcane juice (a must-have) or a popsicle to beat the heat.

Day 3:

We took a walk in the morning to Sanapur Lake (more a dam than a lake), which is very near to our hotel. We checked out from the hotel and went for a long ride by the fields before returning our loyal bike. Took a ferry across and killed time by shopping in Hampi bazaar. The Lambada women sell hand-crafted jewelry and bags; available only on this side of the river. I bought a couple of bracelets as a memoir :) We lunched and boarded a bus to Hospet, walked to the station, and boarded the train back home.

 A few things which may come in use to travelers:

a)      Most temples located on the other side of the river are active, you may want to pack chappals instead of shoes, not much trekking to do here except for the Anjani Parbat.

b)      All temples located on the main side except the Virupaksha temple are now monuments. Footwear is permitted inside the shrines as well.

c)      Petrol is available in local shops on the other side of the river at Rs.70-80 per litre.

d)      Many restaurants and hotels serve hot and refreshing chai in tall glasses-must try.

e)      Carry enough cash with you; most places do not accept cards.

f)       Check the weather before you pack; light clothing would be a good choice for the humid daytime and woolens/heavy clothing for the night.