A small village tucked away in wilderness, that’s the first
impression you get of Gandikota.
As you set out to explore the ruins of what was once a huge
fort, walking through the pebbled paths, with the fresh air, rugged villagers
and their cattle for company, you absorb the sheer tranquility of the place, the
sound of silence it offers and the history it speaks of.
We booked an overnight sleeper bus from Hyd to Tadipatri (Diwaker Travels). From there
we had to take a bus to a town called Jammalamadugu (took around 2 hours); then
another bus to Gandikota (took about 20 min). The frequency of buses from
Jammalamadugu to Gandikota is as low as twice a day. Autorickshaws are also
available in this stretch.
Throughout the journey, you can see the generous use of Cuddapah slabs in the construction of
tea shops, houses, temples, benches; practically anything and everything!
The only hotel and
restaurant in Gandikota is the ‘Haritha Resort’ run by the APTDC.
The bus stops right in front of it. The entrance of the hotel itself is built
like a fort wall, complete with a watch point. The hotel has both A/C and non A/C
rooms. Though the staff is not very technology-friendly, it is better to book
your rooms online before reaching - especially if you are travelling during the
weekends. Some of the rooms have a terrace which gives good scenic views.
The restaurant serves hot and spicy Andhra meals for lunch – complete with pappu, pickle, koora,
rasam, papad, curd and rice, and offers limited choice for dinner like fried
rice, tomato curry and roti.
You can explore Gandikota in about 3 hours’ time - request for a guide at the APTDC. (Un)fortunately, most guides were busy with folks from the Archaeological Survey of India as the officials are now trying for a Heritage status for the Gandikota fort.
So, we started on foot and headed for the fort, came across
a ‘Charminar’ (yes, there’s one here
too!). As we proceeded, we saw the
Granary. A small diversion on the left lead us to the mighty Madhavaraya Temple, the gopuram is
tall, beautiful and eroded at places. The temple is now a monument and the
idols have been removed. Just outside the temple, we noticed a board called
‘Royal Bath’; the adventurers in us tread down the path, which lead to a rather
deserted gorge (probably the fort
gorge view point). A man driving his goats home told us there was a ‘cheruvu’ ahead. The water was scant, the
climb was tough with thorns and wild grass catching at our dresses, but the
view was terrific.
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| Charminar |
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| Deserted Gorge |
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| Deserted Gorge 2 |
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| Gorge view point |
Our journey continued from G.Kotala Palli to J.Madugu to Belum Caves, which took about 3 hours.
These caves are believed to be used by Buddhist monks for
penance ages ago. Places of interest include – Banyan Tree Hall, Thousand
Hoods, Patalaganga, Kotilingalu Chamber, Meditation Hall and the stalagmite
formations. At the mouth of the caves, there is a list and a map showing the
places of interest. Overall, a good experience of mazes underground.
We boarded a bus back to Tadipatri and dined at the sole AC
restaurant (which we found after a lot of hunting) in the town. Headed home in
a pre-booked sleeper bus (again, Diwaker Travels) with the satisfaction of
having spent the weekend well.
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| Patalaganga |
Points to note:
1.
Gandikota:
·
You could probably trek down to the river from
near the gorge view point, but better to do so with the help of a guide.
·
Kayaking is available – do get the details from
the APTDC guys if you are game.
·
Though you may be the only tourist at a given
spot at a given time, enjoy the tranquility. You will get it only as long as
Gandikota remains non-commercialized.
2.
Belum Caves:
·
The caves are humid and mushy at places - it is
advisable to wear light clothing and appropriate footwear/shoes.
·
Though there are plenty of places in the campus
where you can take an afternoon nap, you can’t plan to lunch as only light
refreshments are available.





